Ask any Barcelona local where they would prefer to own a second home and one of the most frequent answers will no doubt be l’Empordà. If you have never heard of this under-the-radar part of Catalonia, you are not alone.
The medieval town of Peratallada is one of the most beautiful spots in the Empordà region of … [+]
This Is L’Empordà
If you have been to Catalonia, you have probably visited buzzy Barcelona or the Costa Brava, the dreamy coastline dotted with aquamarine coves that stretches from just north of Barcelona to the French border. But what about l’Empordà? Idyllically set between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean, parts of this region are just a 90-minute drive from central Barcelona. And although the Costa Brava technically forms part of l’Empordà, the name is often used to refer to the inland rather than the coast.
While the seaside towns of the costa are either teeming with tourists in the summer months or all but deserted in the wintertime, the inland offers a slower, more balanced pace of life. Known for its medieval villages, apple orchards, vineyards, and artisanal ceramics, l’Empordà is also home to more fine-dining restaurants than you can shake a breadstick at, and countless ancient farmhouses-turned-luxury homes, many of which are owned by members of the Barcelona elite.
Casa Riera.
Luxury Home Rentals In L’Empordà
“Homes of this caliber are not usually available to rent, and certainly not through the usual channels,” comments Pablo Rovira, the founder of VIU Empordà, a high-end vacation rental company that manages a carefully curated selection of luxury homes in l’Empordà.
VIU Empordà’s portfolio ranges from Mas Antic, a rustic, but beautifully preserved, 16th-century farmhouse, to Casa Terra, a brand-new, futuristic villa with an infinity pool and show-stopping views of the surrounding countryside. For families or groups of friends, Casa Riera offers the best of both worlds, split across a spacious main house with two bedrooms, and a smaller guest house built on a property that also boasts a lush garden and swimming pool. The restored farmhouse blends original details like stone floors and curved staircases with bold, contemporary furnishings and artworks.
Casa Riera blends original features with bold, contemporary furnishings and artworks.
Experiences Money Can’t Buy
As Rovira explains, his company offers more than just accommodation, it also works with an impressive lineup of local experts who provide experiences that are not available to the average traveler. As part of a stay with VIU Empordà, you may opt to take a private guided e-bike tour through the region’s rolling green valleys and exquisitely preserved ancient villages, or have your lunch served among the vines in a local vineyard. Or why not arrange for local chef Iolanda Bustos, author of “Cocinar con Flores” (Cook with Flowers) to bring seasonal blooms and herbs from her garden, and rice from the rice paddies in the nearby town of Pals, and prepare a feast right in your kitchen?
“We offer access to the kinds of experiences that can’t be booked online or bought with money,” says Rovira. “I call it slow luxury.”
Lunch served among the vines in Empordà.
Off-Season In L’Empordà
L’Empordà has plenty to keep you busy, even the colder months. D.O. Empordà is one of twelve designated wine regions in Catalonia, best known for its Grenache-based reds, full of fresh Mediterranean character. Many of the wineries, like Mas Estela or the sustainable Perelada winery, are found in the northern part of Empordà, or Alt Empordà, although spots like Celler Brugarol with its farm, winery, olive grove, two restaurants and guest house near Palamós are well worth a visit.
This region is also known for its artisanal ceramics, the epicenter of which can be found in the town of La Bisbal d’Empordà. Walk down the high street in the otherwise-somewhat-dreary town center and you will soon discover that its shop windows are brimming with enough colorful plates, salad bowls and flower pots to satisfy all your ceramic desires.
The decadent Beef Wellington at Restaurant Normal is probably the best you’ll ever try.
If eating well is a priority, l’Empordà has no shortage of great options. From casual eateries like És! Carxofa in the charming village of Púbol, to Michelin-approved spots like Bo.TiC, there is something for everyone. Gourmands should check out nearby Girona where the Roca brothers’ legendary Celler de Can Roca (twice named the best restaurant in the world) serves tasting menus that have been known to make grown men cry. If you can’t score a reservation at Celler, don’t fret, the Rocas’ downtown Girona outpost, Normal, is anything but run-of-the-mill. The juicy Sacha omelet with red prawn carpaccio melts in the mouth, while the ultra-decadent Beef Wellington is probably the best you’ll ever try.
Car rental is a necessity to get around l’Empordà.
How To Get There
If you are wondering how l’Empordà has managed to retain its exclusivity, one answer is that it is tricky to access by public transport. To get here—and get around— you will need a car. For something very “now”, try Virtuo, a mobility tool that enables modern travelers to rent luxury vehicles from convenient city center locations without paying an arm and a leg. The process is made easy with a mobile app through which you do everything from booking the car, to unlocking and driving it—similar to car-sharing but far chicer.
